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Pit Bike 50-110CC Chinese MANUAL to SEMI Auto Clutch conversion instructions.

**will add Pics later*
I did this specifically for my 9yo daughter, her hands are too small and she does not have the strength to work the clutch lever.
I specifically have a 2019 SSR110DX, it uses a YZ variant of the honda CRF50 motor in a 110CC displacement. the primary and drive gear in this bike is 18/67, other bikes may be 17/69. make sure you check beforehand. the 18/67 ratio will give you more top speed.
Total cost including clutch nut tool, $140, not including tax or shipping for you. *caveat that you dont need a gasket for the cover (if you do it costs $8 , and the link is below.

parts and tools you will need.
needlenose pliers with good teeth, or a spring puller
1/4 flathead (slotted) screwdriver
Phillips #2 screwdriver (i prefer JIS #2, they dont strip as much)
8mm socket, 10mm socket
6" socket extension
corresponding ratchet
clutch nut tool, i used THIS ONE it was $8US on amazon
1/2 drive extension
1/4 hex compact impact driver or impact gun(removal only) (i used a 1/4 hex impact driver with a socket adapter)
1/2 drive torque wrench (if using an electric impact driver (1/4 hex drive type not automotive type this should suffice)
a snap ring tool for outside snap rings, and a small pick
4mm and 5mm allen or hex wrench (it could be either)
14mm wrench (not a socket! i said wrench!)
the clutch cover for an auto clutch, $34 EBAY LINK
the clutch kit (this bike needs an 18T, IT MATTERS) $30US EBAY LINK
the shift linkage assembly, $40 Ebay link
the shift clutch interrupt arm (I had to use a honda part number to get the right one) $12 EBAY LINK
dip stick (this bike has a much longer one with the manual clutch cover) $8 EBAY LINK
Optional parts:
*you need to swap your kick starter seal to the other cover or buy a new one
seal for kickstarter shaft $8 EBAY LINK (this is a kit)
Cover Gasket $8 EBAY LINK
NOTE! the front bolt on the cover will be 15mm too long when swapping to the auto cover from the manual, I reused mine with a spacer I bought from the hardware store, you could do the same or stack washers or similar to fix this, OR buy the correct bolt.
The bike engine should be cool, and the fuel and engine switch/levers in the off positions. you may unplug the spark plug wire for additional safety. remember to reinstall it after you have finished your work.

Begin by draining the oil,
remove the Shifter and Kick starter (both use a 10mm bolt which should be fully removed to pull the shifter off. Note that the shifter may need some clearancing to work with the new shift linkage shaft.)
remove the clutch cable starting at the perch/lever, remove the perch, and disconnect the cable from the case/cove
remove cotter pin securing the rear brake lever to the bike, and the washer. then remove the cotter pin, washer and clevis pin from the linkage. then using pliers or a spring puller, disconnect the brake lever return spring. slide the lever off and out of the way.
remove the 8mm bolts securing the cover to the bike. My bike had 8 bolts in all, I placed them in the correct spots on the new cover while removing each one.
remove the cover by pulling it straight outward from the engine. you may have to tap around the cover and wiggle it to remove it. mine was able to do so without tearing the gasket. There will be some oil dripping.
at this time, pull the Kickstarter shaft seal out (i was able to do it with a flat head and gentle pried it out)
take the bolts you laid into your new cover and place them into the old cover.
press the kickstarter shaft seal into the new cover.
you will take the gold colored bolt from your kit (the slot facing out, place it into the hole in the side of the cover, and take the three legged part (spider bearing) and screw it onto the bolt with the locating pin correctly orienting in the case, it should not spin, you will screw the adjuster bolt into it. put the included o ring, flat washer and nut onto the adjuster on the outside, in that order. it may help to pour a little oil onto these internal parts as you assemble them.
carefully remove the four screws in the bearing cover, they should be Philips head. remove the cover (dont drop the little dowel in the center!), and its gasket.
locate the tab retaining the clutch nut and pry it out with the flathead screwdriver.
use the clutch nut tool to remove the nut. followed by its directional washer and retainer.
pull the clutch straight off.
remove the gear, the dimpled sleeve and the stepped collar behind it.
now us your snap ring pliers to remove the small snap ring retaining the larger gear (DONT LOSE IT, Damn thing will Fly into orbit)
remove large gear.
now at the top left you will see a start wheel and a spring loaded arm with a disc/circle of metal on it. DO NOT FULLY REMOVE! it is secured by a hex bolt. you will use a GOOD allen/heck wrench to loosen it,you must press down on the lever while loosening it to clear the star wheel. DO NOT FULL REMOVE! once it is clear, let it pivot upwards out of the way. do not remove the start wheel or rotate it.
pull the shift shaft linkage out carefully.
insert new shift linkage assembly, the new one should be longer with a splined end added on the clutch side.
push springe loaded arm back into position and tighten its fastener.
reinstall large gear wheel.
install gear wheel circlip/snap ring.
install new stepped collar with the narrow end out.
install new dimpled sleeve
install new gear.
install new clutch assembly, ensure that the assembly properly engages the gear and is fully seated.
install nut retainer.
install beveled washer. narrow end out. it may also say (OUTSIDE)
install clutch nut. the side with the smooth edges out.
use clutch tool and torque to 21ft/lbs.
bend retaining tab into one slot of nut.
install bearing plate gasket and bearing plate. tighten 4 screws to hand tight/snug (no ugga duggas needed, just tight)
install the odd spoon shaped bearing seat.
install the clutch interrupt arm. onto the splined shift linkage shaft. it should be installed with the post/pin facing inwards so that the three depressions in the bearing plate are at 2,5, and 9 o'clock, and the ping is in the middle most position of the bearing seat.
install new gasket if needed, and install new cover. you may have to wiggle the cover a little to get everything lined up, just dont press too hard. it'll slide on fairly easy once everything is lined up.
install the bolts in the correct holes, and tighten them snugly, no ugga dugga. remember the front bolt will be too long. follow my recommendation earlier to solve this, or it will leak.
install shift lever. before tightening the bolt down entirely, pull it to it away from the engine as you tighten its securing bolt. you may experience the shifter sticking on down shifts. if this doesnt help, you will need to grind some material off of the top rear spot of the shifter lever. i just beveled it 1/16" and that was fine.
install kick starter.
reinstall rear brake lever in reverse of removal.
fill with oil. I use Rotella T4 15w-40 up to the full mark on the dipstick, with the bike held upright and not resting or leaning on the side stand, etc.
adjust the auto clutch. loosen the 14mm lock nut if not already loosened. using the Flathead screwdriver turn the screw to the right (clockwise) until it stops. then turn it to the left until it gives resistance. turn the screw 1/8 turn to the right/clockwise from that point. while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver, tighten the locknut snugly.
start the bike in neutral, shift the bike into 1st gear. it should pull a little at idle, but the clutch should disengage when the shifter is pressed approximately 14-18mm or roughly 1/2". make adjustments with engine off/not running if needed.
enjoy your auto clutch.
your manual clutch can be installed at any time you decide to revert.

ride safe!
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Why is it only the 10mm socket disappears?

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